Ireland feels strangely like home (a book)

Late last year, I went to Ireland for the first time. I was lucky enough to spend eight days there, touring a handful of counties with family. (My sister and I are married to brothers -- long story -- so it was me and my sister, and our husbands, who are also brothers.) Starting in Dublin for a couple days, we took a driving tour and spent a couple days in counties Roscommon, Galway and Kerry (Killarney) before heading back to Dublin to fly home.

Dublin

Our first night in Dublin we took a really early morning walkabout,
suffering from jet lag as we were. We passed by this creepy old church
on our way up the hill to Killiney Hill Park, which boasted of
the best sunrise views.

Killiney Hill Park did not disappoint, with beautiful views
overlooking parts of Dublin

On the other side of the jut were some seriously moody clouds

Then, we hopped in the car and took off for Roscommon County,
and I saw surprisingly little of the countryside...
Ireland really likes to wall off its highways and roads, as shown here,
presumably so the citizens don't have to see ugly cars
tearing through their beautiful pastoral views. :) 

 Roscommon 

We arrived at the Kilronan Castle.
I'll admit it, I totally geeked out and took all the touristy-type
pictures. I even realized I'm a tiny bit of a foodie underneath
it all. I just had to have access to afternoon tea every day.

Please?

Here's a few photos taken during a walk around the grounds
of Kilronan Castle, when I wasn't inside ordering
afternoon tea and chortling over it like a
crazy person.

This was an old entrance into the castle from
the Ha Ha (there are what looked like
horse stalls to the right). I assume this is where
the carriages pulled up and dropped off guests.

Secret passageway?!

Everywhere in Ireland you find roads and walkways
bordered by these walls. Most are extremely old, as
illustrated by this tree's roots burrowing into it.

Afternoon tea at Kilronan Castle.

While the scones were always my favorite part
of afternoon tea, the artistry of all the different
components always induced me to eat.way.too.much.
Every time.

Downstairs bar in Kilronan Castle (a few others
trickled in over the night, but we mostly had it
to ourselves)

This was my first chance to visit Ireland, though my sister and I grew up on stories of our mixed Ireland and Scotland ancestry. Nonetheless, my sister and I were both really taken aback at how comfortable we felt in Ireland, how much we felt like we "fit right in". Of course, the Irish are very welcoming and friendly, without a doubt, so even my mixed husband felt comfortable (which is often not the case in America, from which we hail). But mannerisms, vocal tones and volumes, driving style... such things I wouldn't have expected to be passed along through DNA, half a world away. According to our husbands, though, my sister and I don't fall far from the Irish tree... which was the source of a lot of teasing as we hurtled nilly-willow through the country on those narrow, walled-in roads.

Galway 

In Galway, we stayed at the comparatively modern
G hotel. The cupcakes looked a lot yummier
than they were, but that's probably what I get for
trying to eat every sugary thing I stumbled across.

It was Halloween, and the afternoon tea I ordered
at the G hotel reflected how seriously the Irish
take this important holiday. 

It broke my heart walking away from
this spooky display half-eaten, even with four people.
But doing anything else would have had
serious consequences. (Like, the plane wouldn't
have been able to take off...)

Exploring "old town" in Galway... This tiny corner
pub was my absolute favorite. I took a picture
so I would always remember.

It was a little cramped :) 

Cliffs of Moher

We spent one of our days in Galway driving over to and exploring the Cliffs of Moher. My sister and husband are not fans of heights, so it was fun to be able to turn the teasing elsewhere for one day. Below are a few photos from the trip to the Cliffs.

It was like driving in another century

According to Google, this was Dunguaire Castle that we
happened to drive past. We pulled over for a quick exploration,
but it was closed up. (Probably due to obnoxious tourists.)

When there was a hill to climb, you can expect some
seriously intense switchbacks. 

We pulled over to enjoy the view halfway up this hill, and my
husband played his new Irish whistle for the cows. 

And finally, once we were at the actual Cliffs I was too busy to take many photos...

The Cliffs were magnificent.

My husband and sister couldn't stay far enough from
the edge as we climbed up to the clifftop.
Eventually, we came across this sign and they
just couldn't contain themselves any longer.

Once the wall between us and the edge of the cliff ended and I wanted to keep going, I had a ugly rebellion on my hands. Being dragged away from "certain death", I was gifted with the chance to drive us back to Galway, like candy dangled in front of a baby to distract them. "Driving while in Ireland" should be classified in some subcategory of thrill-seeking sports. Any one of the following things could be intimidating to a driver, but throw them all together and I'm surprised I could pry my aching hands off the steering wheel when I finally pulled into the hotel parking lot that night:

Cows grazing on the narrow strips
between the switchback road heading
up the hill... Think about their cute,
bovine eyes and don't take your eyes
off that road!

1. Crazy high speed limits on a strange route
2. Driving on the wrong side of the road with road signs you don't recognize (American, remember?)
3. Narrow roads enforced by ancient walls on both sides of the road, with ancient trees growing out of them and encroaching into the road
4. Switchbacks (with cows)

It was a thrill I'll always remember. And even better, we had comprehensive insurance coverage on our rental car. Regardless, any missing paint from said encroaching tree branches are totally not my fault. Ancient trees should know better, they've seen humanity at its worst.

Kerry 

We only had one night in Kerry, but we toured the beautiful town of Killarney before we had to hop in the car for a long drive back toward Dublin.

We walked to this glade not far from our hotel (before afternoon tea)

Walking through certain parts of Killarney was a transportive experience.

And of course, even though it makes me feel
bloated, I had to have at least one delicious Guinness. 

Tipperary (unofficial stop)

On the long drive back toward Dublin, we stopped for some coffee and expected adventure at Tipperary. 

As we walked the streets of Tipperary in search
caffeine, we stumbled across Cahir Castle.

Cahir Castle has an interesting history

Maybe 15 minutes later, as we finally located our caffeine fix,
the sky abruptly clouded over

Thirty seconds later, double rainbow wow aside,
it was looking rather ominous... 

As we started walking back toward our car, the sky with the funny double rainbow suddenly opened up and began pouring down the fattest raindrops I've ever experienced. As someone who's lived in Los Angeles and Seattle, I thought I knew rain like no-ones business. Turns out Seattle rain is a joke. We were instantly drenched all the way through, freezing, so we gripped our coffees tight and ran. We drove the rest of the way to the Dublin airport steaming slightly as we slowly dried out under the care of our rental car's heating vents, on blast. Brrrrrrr!

Ireland wins. In so many ways.

red bullx4 squared

I woke up this lazy morning and surfed around looking at the latest kdrama's available (I'm obsessed with City Hunter at the moment). Then mother dropped by and we chatted over coffee about how fun it is not to be allergic to everything but meat and half of the vegetables on this planet (the less plentiful half). Then we puttered around in my wanna-be garden, picking the just-ripened crop of red, sweet strawberries, clucked our tongue over the thirsty rhubarb and harvested peppermint for tea. Whereupon mother metaphorically raised her middle finger at her elimination diet by popping a few strawberries in her mouth -- yeah, that's not one of the vegetables she's allowed to eat. (Sucks to be denied all sugars!)

A delicious treat by Johnny, "Omurice"

When mother left, I jumped in the shower to head off some sort of stinging nettle-type reaction we'd stirred up in the garden (which is why it's a wanna-be garden -- our strawberries fight hard for their survival against weeds of all kinds, because we have no idea what's legitimate or not.)  While soaping up, surrounded by the smell of summer coming in the open window, I realized I was grinning at nothing at all, and then... that I was happy, perfectly happy, right this moment.  My hip is healing wonderfully. I am day two into my four-day holiday for the 4th of July. The kids are off having fun at their grandma's, and Johnny and I are spending lazy days basking in each other's uninterrupted presence -- getting special treats to enjoy, making scrumptious meals, watching dramas into the night, having BBQs with beloved family and just spoiling each other. It's been heavenly.

And as soon as I realized I was happy, I wanted to post about it. I haven't really wanted, or had the energy, to post about something in quite a while (who wants to showcase their endless stress?)  But this morning, climbing from the shower, Savarna was the first thing I thought of. Does that mean blogging here makes me happy? :)

Those moments are nothing to sneeze at. Despite all the shit life throws at you, I hope everyone has those soft moments where you realize that you're perfectly happy right this second, even if it is gone the next. It keeps you going. Like Red Bullx4 squared.  And for me, it's all about family. (Which I find somewhat ironic, to be sure.)

damily rants

I'm not posting about the big Thanksgiving we had on Saturday with the whole family, because it was just too traumatic, and the last thing I want to do is rehash it when everyone else is so busy rehashing it over dinner anyway.  I'm going to stick to my assertion that this damily (Freudian-typo slip that I am just going to leave in, because though he's mostly full of shit, this amused me) is just not prepared to deal with, or ready to face, Tiffy's death.  And I for one resent feeling pressured to do so. In fact, I'm doing a lot of resenting of family drama and obligations these days, which only convinces me further that I'm not operating within normal parameters. I've become an emotional zombie, and I'm just leaving it at that.

Still un-browned/steamed

The crab pot stickers were a huge hit, though; check them out, I finally uploaded all the pictures from my camera. We got pretty quick baggin' those suckers by the end of the first package of wraps.

I hear that someone might be bringing baggies of already-shelled crab (smart move) to make more of them this Friday night at the jamming session.  Unfortunately, I will miss it due to my Holiday Party at work, but I hope they make lots and lots so I can sneak into the kitchen late at night and wallow and filch until my fingers are dripping with the delicious sauce Johnny makes, mmmm!

Speaking of my work Holiday party:  because of the economic meltdown, my employer hasn't hosted a holiday party for the last two years following my transfer up to Washington State from the Los Angeles office; rather, they donated the money to charities.  So I don't really know how they throw a holiday party in this office, being so much smaller, and so... well, Seattle-like. :D  Is it staid? Is it boring? Is it tense and snobby?  Am I snobby?!  Anyway, I hadn't decided whether to go or not until Sarah, my fellow Korean-drama-watching-friend at work, invited me to be her date since her husband wouldn't be able to make it.  Which sounded like just the thing, since I fatalistically will not bother asking and being turned down again by John. Crowds make him anxious.  (That man of mine... he'll spend hours watching Asian dramas with me, and play his guitar and sing me to sleep when I need it. He'll also spend hours making the perfect homemade pot sticker and real ramen, but he won't take me out for all the free wining and dining that we could possibly want.  Sigh. /rant)

So that's what I'm going to do. Have a party. Without Johnny or Mary. :(

wherein i'm delighted and traumatized

Thursday's mini-Thanksgiving for those in the family who couldn't make today's big, formal Thanksgiving at my sister's house went off spectacularly well. I ended up making great mashed potatoes, if I do say myself (and I will!), mom brought yummy pies and Mary brought a feast! Turkey, stuffing, gravy, sweet potatoes and wine... and 6 crabs, many of which were left over (because crab doesn't seem to be how my family rocks. What can I say.) 

Mary had the forethought to record the sibs playing "Creep" by Radiohead, later in the evening when we inevitably wandered downstairs to see what Johnny and Jesse were up to. Jesse on the drums, Johnny on guitar and Emily singing.  This was on request, and Johnny's never played it before... but I thought they did spectacularly.  I love Em's voice.



Also amazing is that she can sing like that on a full stomach.

E&O singing "No-one" by Alicia Keys

Jesse on drums

M&E singing

Johnny singing requests

  ~ * ~

In the end, there was lots of crab left over, and Mary left a good plate piled high for us. I spent hours yesterday shelling my first ever crab without any of the necessary utensils, much to my consternation; my daughter was frozen a couple yards away from me with her face in a grimace, unwilling to abandon me to the trauma of dissecting corpses on my own ("Can I get a wet rag?! Ugh!" & "Um. Do we have any wrenches?") but barely able to suppress her gorge at the smell and sight of it. I can only imagine the content of her furious texting with friends during those hours. But we lived, minus a little skin on my fingers, and today... we make crab pot stickers, Mmmmm! 

And now? Off to do it once more.

happy thanksgiving

Because the snow has made Johnny's oldest brother's house unassailable, our traditional -- okay, I didn't know it was a tradition, but have since learned that two years a tradition makes! -- Thanksgiving house for the my husband's family and my family has been cut off until Saturday. "Oh, yay!" I thought. "Two more days to drag myself to the grocery store by bus to buy supplies for whatever dish I haven't yet decided to make!" Two days hence, we will have Thanksgiv-----

Eeeeeeeeeehhhh!!??

Apparently, the unanimous response of the family members who aren't stuck up in the hilly Eastside frost caves was to turn hard and bright eyes to the next oldest brother, Johnny. And hence I learn, last night, that I am having Thanksgiving for a dozen or more family members at my house today. With a table that doesn't begin to fit a dozen people, and not enough bowls. And food?

Last night we dragged our asses through the snow to the grocery store (and by the way, the bus in snow chains in freezing weather is four kind of loud hell!) and bought:

• Raspberry Chipotle dip, cream cheese & club crackers. 
• Half-n-half for coffee... and maybe mashed potatoes if I can find a recipe.  (Yes, I said it. Find a recipe for mashed potatoes.)  

That's right. Dip and mashed potatoes, if they're lucky. I have announced, through email and with suitably frantic adjectives, that anything resembling a turkey dinner will be on the heads of those who come!   >.<  They've been warned.

But Johnny's sister, O, bought the stuff for Green Bean Casserole, so I think I should stop puttering around on the computer avoiding the kitchen, and go help her make it.  Since that's one thing I can't seem to forget how to make.  (Even though I've tried. <3  The problem is Johnny isn't a fan, so I can't trust him to learn how to make it. So if I want it, I'll have to make it, mer. :( Ah, the sad life of a working mother!)

Wish me luck.

things are looking up for the holidays

We had so many family and friends show up to Lindsey Jams this Friday, some quite unexpectedly.  I wonder if they're feeling the holiday coming on, and are looking for family?  Practicing for Thanksgiving?  Or maybe running from that 'alone in the house on a holiday' dread.  Whatever the drive was, we were so happy to see everyone.

Mother & sons #2-4 (of 5)

EC&O, shining bright

 ~ * ~

Skimming through some posts from the last year, I realized the difference between how I was feeling half a year ago versus these last couple months.  There is nothing to say at this point about the effects of Tiffy's death; that would be an exercise in useless masochism.  But regarding the changes in my life around the surgery and promotion at work, I realize I am just plain happier.

Even averaging 60-65 hours a week on the job, the ball of stress I had in my stomach is no longer a permanent resident.  In fact, it rarely shows up at all. My ribs no longer feel like they're encroaching on my lungs, and that I'm suffocating myself in my own frustration and tension. I walk around the neighborhood and downtown Seattle when I want.  I work from home when my schedule allows, and spend some highly desirous time with my family (even if it's just being in the same four walls.)  I have... what's that feeling? Energy. It's amazing to recognize that buoyant feeling, that reserve, after having nothing in the tanks at all for a year or more. 

Is it... the feeling that the downward spiral has slowed? Perhaps halted altogether? Does the rest of the family feel something similar, that the worst has happened -- "How can it get worse now? It can only go up from here... right?"

birthing pains -- albino blood monkeys

A new band debuted this 4th of July, at my mother-in-law's house. 

Introducing... (drum roll) the   

Albino Blood Monkeys!

Song title: Leaf Cookies (it's actually pie)

Hahahaha, just kidding. Sorry, the audience started dancing, which was apparently fatally funny. 

So, here's the real song. (And remember, no clapping! Or dancing! It's distracting.)

... wait! Not Albino Blood Monkeys? Guess it's hard to get a set of five 13-16 year-olds to settle. :) (And anyone who has a teenager can imagine exactly how this song came about!)

Band consists of an aunt, an uncle and three cousins. Can you guess which ones are the aunt/uncle? (I'll give you a hint: aunt is blond, uncle has a mean rhythm.)

Look for their CD in 2012, coming to a series of tubes near you.

fun on the fourth

This year was a bittersweet one, our first fourth of July without Tiffy. We ate too much, played on the trampoline, watched fireworks and then sat around the firepit for s'mores and singing. Emily sang a song Tiffy wrote, which was amazing to hear.

But this holiday has always been about fun with the family. We missed those not present, but with so many kids around, there was no way the day could be all somber.

I shot this video of the trampoline antics.

Also, the last year of the infamous "Lindsey Presentation", where the older brothers of John's family made a big presentation as they set off fireworks, to include, but not limited to: singing, skits and many wisecracks. (It is also acceptable behavior for mucho heckling from an easy-to-please but full-of-spice crowd.) We've spent many years of fun with this tradition--born about 14 years ago when we had babies and little money--and it's been decided that the tradition needs to be handed off to the next generation, which have finally reached an age where they'd like a part in the family traditions.

our storm

Pictured is a piece I lettered for my mother-in-law, someone who I find to be amazingly inspirational and woman-centered.

She encouraged me to learn all I did of anti-hierarchy and respect for my fellow human beings. The peice is hung from a stick of driftwood I found on the beach by my house. It's a little blurry, but it reads:

Speak to me of your power. Speak to me in riddles, in a woman’s tongue. This day is coming into being and I need no translation. I can feel you breathing, sisters. The calm static before this long-awaited storm.

Our storm.

This is a stanza in a poem written for my mother-in-law by another woman, whom I only know as "allecto". If anything else is known about this person, I would be happy to give credit as due, here. It's a wonderful poem.

korean drama "iris" ...among other things

I am obsessing over this Korean drama, IRIS, playing right now in Korea (KBS Entertainment). Indeed, I've dragged my long-suffering husband along for the ride, waiting with baited breath for the next episode, hehehe. Lucky me, the Koreans have the right idea: two episodes a week, none of that one shit.



English subtitles are available, by WithS2 for anyone who wants to check it out.

~*~

And in other news, I've had 2 week-long vacations in the last two months, with another one coming up over Christmas. I should be in heaven, but there's a potential opportunity to interview for another position at my company--a position I've had my eye on for about 2 years now. And I've been working really hard to prove myself for this exact thing, but the stress of waiting (will they, or won't they open the position??!!) is wearing on me. I just got back this week from vacation, and I want another one. :)

Tuesday the turtle is poking his head out more frequently these days. Someone needs to tell him that he jumped the gun in hibernating as soon as fall showed up; now he's got the whole winter ahead of him. Lucky for him, he's in a temperature controlled environment.

Oop--off to meddle with my mother. <3

happy fourth <3

No sound, don't bother messing with the settings.

Day of the Dead on Olvera Street, Los Angeles

There's no sound, so don't bother fiddling with the settings. I didn't have a camera with the capabilities two years ago when I took this, up on the balcony on Olvera Street.